Cordelette vs sling reddit Here’s 13 votes, 22 comments. I prefer a 7mm cordelette if I am equalizing 3 pieces of gear. BallsOut says 6-8mm is good for anchors, but that's for cordelette type set-ups. I think they are reasonable trade offs. long section of seven- to eight-millimeter Perlon accessory cord and use a double fisherman's knot to tie the cord into one big loop. ) Look at the second edition of "climbing anchors" by John Long. So Cordelette or accessory cord is a skinny rope from about 5mm to 9mm (bigger is generally stronger, smaller is not suitable for climbing). If it only worked as advertised, it would be terrific. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). My BFF recommended Sling TV, so I jumped in. Slings. It takes a lot of slings (and carabiners, if you don't trust slings girth-hitched together) to make an anchor on a boulder the size of a Beetle, but only one cordalette. Resulting in the majority of . Although I am curious about what around here thinks. I don't think it's that much hassle though, it's pretty rare that you can't work out something with a 120cm sling and a 60cm sling (which I carry anyway for extending gear, slinging spikes etc. Most TR's are already have equalized anchors where you just Reasons to use sling(s) - Your rope is short compared to what's standard for multipitching in the US. Specifically the cordelette. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device, replacing anchor We've had Sling/AirTV on a Roku for a couple years. Small cord will bite better and has a sheath to wear through before the core. It's specialized for when you get to the top. Prusik or Prusik cord is a shorter loop of cord specifically used for friction knots. 7mm is a very common Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. I take a cordelette to be a long length Here is my rule of thumb: have the cordellette just long enough so that when you double it, and then double it again, it is the same length as a single shoulder-length sling. And, while James Bond might use shoelace, Traddad uses 6mm cord or a nylon sling for his friction knots. Cord(alette) stiffness . The 16 mm nylon sling will work as a friction hitch, but has a higher risk of being damaged and therefore losing function as a sling. On the cordelette, all four strands come together at the same I keep seeing references to cordelette, especially for equalising/creating a master/power point between multiple piece trad anchors. I would use a triple fisherman’s instead of a double though. Just use a sling or 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. I A cordelette is a pretty poor equalizer to begin with. To equalize three anchor points with a cordelette: Clip the cordelette Anchors. by Michael Powers, IFMGA AAI Senior Guide & Director for Staff Development. I am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. I went from straight up Singer to Airbyte and everything in between, Airbyte worked best for my use case out of the box. In a cordelette set up, if there's any extra material going to one of your anchor points, and less going to another, it means that there is more stretch in the system on the further away anchor points, and less in the closer anchor points. Although, i found that 7mm seems to be a favorite middle ground between strength and weight. Look into the equalette - basically a sliding x variation made with cordelette material. I use 10mm, and it's super durable as long as you know what you're doing. I tend to save wear on my cordalette for multi-pitching trad routes. I also always have a 180 and 120 sling on me for extending pro that can be used Granted only having one leader on a multi-pitch is a bit of a faff. 5m for this). That's where I'm at with boh schedules, foh is a pain in the ass. A sling can be used as an extended quickdraw to allow your rope to run straighter and decrease friction on wandering routes, or it can be used to set up an anchor. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. You can find runners in a variety of lengths: Short runners: 30 cm/ 12 in; Single-length runners: 60 cm/ 24 in; Double-length runners: 120 cm / 48 in; Long Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. It equalizes almost perfectly between two pieces, and decently well between the third or fourth. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to I carry a 240 sling and 20ft of Cord. ) 2x Edelrid Bulletproof HMS lockers (top roping on steel carabiners will save your rope from aluminum oxidation. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. Four months after purchasing AirTV-2 from Amazon, the unit died. Now, you CAN use your PAS (a long one) to arrange a load-sharing, redundant, non-extending anchor to redirect from. Sometimes I like to extend it over an edge that is about 8-10 ft back from the anchor and if I completely untie my 20’ Cordelette, I can extend about 8’ or so to the ledge rather than only about 4’ if it’s in a tied loop. Jordan Cannon and Mark Hudon demonstrate this technique in one of Jordan’s instagram live clinics if you need a Cordelette is long cord or webbing loop for anchors. Edelird 16mm 240cm sling (really any fat 240cm sling, or 2x 120cm slings could work too. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. Been using 7mm for a while now and i can barely tell the difference in weight, and the peace of mind is worth the $14 that 30ft cost me. What are some advantages? Equalette vs Cordelette . Or to belay directly from for that matter. Cordellettes vs. I need to replace some cord and am looking for brand recommendations. Question: From the November 2007 edition of AAI's E-newsletter. Slings come in a variety of lengths, widths and weights. You can easily store this system on your harness. and are absolute and unwavering in their "knowledge" gained from 2 years of climbing in the gym. It has regular glitches (hangs, stuttering, occasional spontaneous reboots), primarily while watching OTA channels via the integrated AirTV support. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. I always undo my cordelette to extend the anchor for top roping. That's my observation. Those four strands It depends. They did cover all materials (draws, slings) and a few different types of anchors (fixed position, 3 piece anchors, natural anchors). These can also be protection so there are extra slings 240cm sling 180cm sling Aramid 120cm sling Self rescue/ emergency/ bailing Two prusiks normally one 6mm and one 5mm cord on a small d screwgate. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. Cord is good if you need to bail as well. I use the webbing or slings for TR's. Having the cordelette can be really nice for slinging a giant boulder or tree or for times when you dont want to swap leads. 9mm is a lot lighter and easier to work with but IME it's about 2X more Thank you so much! I’ll leave this as is and maybe look into getting a shorter cordolette or a sling. Sling Length. Longer slings are more effective at reducing rope drag than a quickdraw, but are also heavier and bulkier. If the same person is leading the next pitch, you'll have to re-connect the anchor pieces or swap rope ends; neither is efficient or risk-free. Or check it out in the app stores   a doubled or tripled Spectra/Dyneema sling being fairly low stretch at the loads we are considering, karabiners even more so. Another guy here mentioned snow, which is a great point. But you get what you pay for. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. The cord is a little longer which I like for trees, rocks or tricky pro. true. My former manager would spend HOURS meticulously working out the perfect schedule so everyone got exactly the shifts they wanted and everyone 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. " - Jim Titt on 3 leg cordelette 6/26/12 Staff slings allow for a greater mechanical advantage than a hand sling, which does let you throw heavier stones but you can't throw moderate size stones nearly as far/ on flat trajectories like a hand sling can, I do believe hand slings, Not for all anchors. Runner/ Sling. Switching from DirecTV to Sling, we saved $60 a month. long sling or cordelette directly to the existing pieces of the anchor wether they’re bolts or gear it doesn’t really matter and build your set up underneath so your leader can just unclip and go. but what is the difference between a cordelette and a sling? A cord is 20 feet long, has lockers hanging off of it, and can't be easily used in a pinch while doing the actual climbing. We also bring up a shovel and probe for the group. Called Sling tech support and was on hold for >3 hours! View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit. 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. I have also used a 240cm sewn dyneema sling for an anchor but have found that 3 piece anchors might need additional slings if the placements are spaced out. Tubular webbings can be sewn or tied to form a runner or sling. If you're running cord 5+m across the top of the crag for a TR, you're going to want something much more substantial. 6mm appears to be rated around 6-7. Or check it out in the app stores   8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building I think my rock anchor cordelette is 7mm and my rescue prusiks (for both rock and snow use) are 5mm. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. I have started to use cordellettes for building anchors and like that they are very versatile for a number of applications. 5 to 18kn (although I believe 18 to be a type for 8mm). 5kn 7mm is between 13. If you're looking to get into multipitch, get ready for a lot of Both the sling and the cordelette are a bit long so I may need to do the same thing but with shorter pieces. sling x 2 double length sling x 2 extra cordelette Certain items, like the pickets, we may hold off on and only bring 1 up for the group. The Cordelette was smaller in diameter than the accessory Even after considering that the knots will weaken it some, I would still expect it to be between 6mm and 7mm standard cordelette strength. I would guess that the quirks of your environment are likely shared by many, so there should be solutions. It's up to you and your team to decide what your comfort level is for support, custom modules, etc. Wild Country seems to be marketing that sling as If you're only doing single pitch, and there are no bolted anchors, just use a cordelette for your slingshot belay. Given the price, compared to cable, it has been a good (adequate) deal. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. Many climbers consider the cordelette a standard piece of gear, as it lets you quickly connect two or more points of protection into a redundant, non-extending, and fairly well distributed anchor. But when looking for this item, I found Cordelette specific, and also Accessory Cord. If you choose to carry a cordelette, the first questions are: what diameter, and how long? For snow climbing or glacier travel, consider 4 meters of 6 mm cord. Spare hms. Just canceled Sling TV last Sunday, St Patrick's day. Of note, we generally travel in a 3 man team and tend to be extra cautious and carry more than we need, hence why we wanted to see your lists! To make a cordelette, take an 18-20 ft. ebvglv bkgmy jdinbfl vdcw ozpr rrzbi ylzp vuasl tibfsqaj xbnx pvzj ggsylm yjgwjkw dkefgvnry eof